The Refectory (Columbus, OH)

My first dining experience at The Refectory was senior prom back in high school. I went to one of the preppiest high schools in the city and hung with folks who put the word 'high' in high-maintenance. Needless to say, I didn't think twice about Chef Blondin's cooking at the time. All I remembered was that it was 'good' and that our prom group was placed in the wine cellar. Talk about a teaser.

Fast forward a few years. Now with a more refined palate (I think!), I've come to truly appreciate the mastermind behind the restaurant. Having been in twice this summer, I can honestly say that The Refectory is not only sterling in its cooking but in service and ambiance as well. Inside this former church are dining rooms -- each with its own feel and its own character. Every staff member is welcoming and courteous without a hint of pretentiousness. Perfection achieved at every level.

Ancillary things (yet every bit noteworthy!) aside, the food is impeccable. Each dish is prepared with meticulous care and with attention to the minute details. Coming in twice in one summer allowed me to have the best of both desserts worlds and to, obviously, sample more of the cooking.



My first appetizer was the Marble of Escargot. Prepared with Shitake mushrooms, the two ingredients blended harmoniously -- with the escargot providing a firm chew and the shitake lending an earthy flavor.



The second time around, I opted for the Alpaca Terrine as my starter. (*Note: this and the infamous sweetbread lasagna are no longer offered.) I vowed I'd garner good karma after eating this simply because having alpaca-anything in Ohio is considered a treat to good to pass up. Served pate style, the terrine itself was wrapped in bacon and topped with sour cherry in brandy. The picture does not do justice to this exquisite appetizer.



As for my main, I unhesitatingly chose the Grilled Bison with horseradish burgundy sauce. My server recommended a medium-rare preparation, but I went with medium to be on the safe side. Despite the generous cut, the pinkness was preserved in the center, as well as the distinct robust flavor. Easily my favorite bison dish ever, I could come back and order this every single time.


I wanted something different, so for my second entree, I went with the Beef Shoulder Tenderloin "aux 3 poivres" style. Like the bison, I went the medium route and was quite satisfied with my choice. The peppercorn sauce subtly enhanced the dish without being too overwhelming.


One dining companion ordered the Dover Sole -- which we were told was only available on the weekends -- and I deemed it necessary to mention such delight of an entree option. Deboned and deftly prepared tableside, it was more captivating than a hibachi show with a lemon caper sauce to boot.


No meal is ever complete without dessert. The pistachio creme brulee was rich, creamy, and scrumptious. While plucked from the current dessert menu, pistachio lovers must order this while at The Refectory (or the next time it's on the menu.)


Though visually arresting, the Pistachio Dacquoise Mousseline did not stack up to the Pistachio creme brulee nor the following Pear Tart Frangipane. I blame it partly on the fractionally dry cake part of this dessert. However, the pistachio mousse was light and fresh and paired quite nicely with the accompanying raspberries.



Ordered also by another dining companion is the Pear Tart Frangipane. Not a fan of desserts with fruits other than berries and having had a less-than-stellar poached pear dessert in a not-so-distant memory at another restaurant, I had my uncertainties as to how this would turn out. Aesthetically pleasing and tastefully delightful, this easily made my list of Top 10 Desserts in Columbus. The pear itself had a nice crunch but when soaked in the vanilla almond frangipane, it was a match made in heaven.

I point folks into The Refectory's direction for milestone dinners, as well as when folks want to try something out of the ordinary and adventurous (e.g. Arctic Char, Escargot, etc.) Why? Because I am 100% positive that Chef Blondin will set them at ease with his culinary skills. Moreover, diners will leave with good impressions of what a solid rendition of "that odd sounding fish" or "that organ" should be like.

Rating: *****

The Refectory
1092 Bethel Rd
Columbus, OH 43220
(614) 451 - 9774

Latitude 41 (Columbus, OH)

In every city, there are overrated restaurants... and then there are the underrated ones. Latitude 41 definitely falls under the latter category. I rarely hear Columbus natives mention the restaurant whenever I ask for recommendations and when I do hear about Latitude 41, it's usually along the lines of "terrible experience." I'll be honest -- I had my reservations when walking in. The words 'hotel food' inevitably echoed in the back of my mind.

Our server simply added to my hesitation as to how dinner would pan out. Slightly on the abrasive side, I find her to be one of the rudest servers I've had in recent memory. It's not that she was condescending in any way, but rather her attitude and manners in saying certain things and correcting a fellow diner with her slight mispronunciation were uncalled for.

That said, onto the food -- which could easily turn me into a regular here at Latitude 41. Three of my friends and I decided on the 4-course tasting menu. *Just a note, if a member of your party opts for the tasting menu, the entire party has to participate. Our server made that crisp and clear from the get-go.

I like to think of my first course as more of an amuse bouche than an actual appetizer. Here you see the Foie Gras Torchon with cashew butter and red currant jelly served on two brioche toasts. It was just like PB&J (although CB&J would have been the more politically correct term.) Cashew butter itself is creamy and dense, so I found it to overpower the starter instead. Either way, it was a good predictor of what's to come (in the sense, that it might actually turn out to be a good dining experience afterall!)



Next up was the Warm Summer Peach salad with humboldt cheese, chorizo and shaved fennel with blood orange vinaigrette. This could easily be my least favorite course of the four. I understand that the chef wanted to manipulate summer ingredients, but the flavors and constituents simply did not mesh in the way that I had hope it would. The brick of humboldt cheese paired very well with the chorizo and salad, but the peach was highly unnecessary.



My third course was the Striped bass in artichoke stew, lemon oil, and grilled scallion. What they had failed to mention was that bacon was prepared in the stew. For my dining companions who didn't eat pork, that almost ruined their main entree. The bass itself was prepared with utmost perfection and the stew served to augment the superb quality of the dish. Buttery and melt-in-your-mouth delicious, I could have easily had another serving of the bass.



The tasting menu concluded with one of my favorite desserts to date -- not to mention one of the most creative desserts I've had too: the Red Eye Breakfast. It consisted of belgium liege waffle, espresso semi freddo, and chocolate covered bentons bacon. Much like the bass, I could have easily scarfed down another plate of this. Moving from top to bottom, diners get quite the interaction of texture, temperature, and taste. From top, it starts off with a brief taste of bitterness from the dark chocolate to the saltiness of the bacon to the coolness of the espresso ice cream to the warmth of thewaffle and, finally, ending with the sourness of the berry coulis. Talk about a flawlessly executed contemporary dessert!

By that point, I was full but went ahead and ordered the Espresso Pot de Creme with beignets, as I have the habit of ordering beignets whenever I see it on a menu. Similar to the Red Eye Breakfast, this grand finale blew me away. With a pot of chocolate mousse richer than any chocolate dessert I've ever tasted and the crispiest balls of dough to accompany it, I was in chocolate heaven!

There aren't many upscale restaurants in Columbus that I can see myself returning over and over again, but I can certainly see myself coming back for either another round of the tasting menu or for the a la carte menu. Prices are highly reasonable given the top-notch quality and artful presentation of each dish. Prices are definitely on par with many of the Cameron Mitchell establishments. With an ambiance to boot, this is a wonderful place for a ladies' night out or for a date night. Of course, given that it's inside the Renaissance Hotel, it's also an excellent place for people watching.

Rating: *****

Latitude 41
50 North 3rd Street
Columbus, OH 43215-3510
(614) 233-7541