Thursday, December 31, 2009
Due Amici (Columbus, OH)
Due Amici boasts a modern rustic feel the first second my mother and I stepped inside. A classy atmosphere with an interior design to boot, I was mildly suspicious at the lack of patronage (i.e. being the sole customers) on a Saturday night. We were immediately taken care of by our server -- who remained attentive all throughout the evening -- and daily specials were recited.
Disappointingly enough, the starters menu at Due Amici was less than enthralling, which led my mom and I straight to the entrees instead where many wonderfully sounding dishes were listed. A nice change from the mediocre lineup of appetizers, I must say.
For myself, the cioppino ($23) was a no-brainer. As a seafood and orzo fiend, I simply cannot say no to a dish that listed mussels, clams, fish, and shrimp over a bed of orzo pastini. The parmesan focaccia that topped off the dish was a different story, as I soon learned that it had the same consistency as Texas toast. The plate itself was teeming with fresh shelled molluscs, plump and flavorful shrimp, and tender fish slices all cooked in a tangy tomato broth. The scattered grains of orzo lended a good contrast and chew to the seafood stew.
My mother, on the other hand, opted for the Grilled Coffee and Spice Rubbed Pork Tenderloin ($23) after much convincing from yours truly. Being slightly wary of having anything espresso related on my meat, I could sense her hesitance upon ordering. However, the tenderloin itself was served juicy and bursting with a range of spices (and absolutely no detection of an espresso taste whatsoever) despite having requested it prepared medium-well. The pine nut-goat cheese barley risotto was generous in serving but light on the creamy department, with the salty undertone of goat cheese providing most of the flavor. And while I didn't care much for the broccoli rabe due to its bitterness, my mom enjoyed it and felt that the bitterness, in fact, rounded the entire entree nicely.
Much like the appetizer menu, the dessert menu didn't exactly shine in the way that would lead me to decide between two or three possible options. The one dessert that particularly stood out, however, was the Zeppollis ($8). Now, after my dining experience at DeepWood, one of my rules was to never order donuts (or anything that resembled donuts) at restaurants ever again. But these zeppollis sounded far too good, and I needed something sweet to clean my palate after all the seafood. The five balls of fried dough encased in cinnamon sugar could honestly be the best donuts I've had in a long time. With a slightly crispy exterior but a warm and soft interior, I could have easily inhaled all five as presented, but the accompanying chocolate ganache sealed its deliciousness.
Truth be told, I did not walk into Due Amici with high expectations after seeing mixed reviews and the lack of eye-catching menu items. Moreover, I was forewarned of the restaurant's reputation as a place "to be seen" and less so a place to actually enjoy the cooking. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the winning mixture of flavors and ingredients that the chef and the rest of the kitchen staff put out. Even though portion sizes should never be a factor to take into consideration while dining at a place like Due Amici, I was equally impressed by the amount of food that was placed in front of us. A highly satisfying meal -- to say the least. An eatery I can see myself returning to sometime in the near future as well.
Rating: ****
Due Amici
67 E. Gay St
Columbus, OH 43215
(614) 224-9373
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Encore by JD Wesley (Toledo, OH)
Encore by JD Wesley has renewed my faith in fine dining in the city of Toledo. Prior to my visit to Encore, I would have undoubtedly pointed folks wanting to experience an upscale dining experience to Fifi's Restaurant in a heartbeat. Upon my discovery of JD Wesley's second restaurant, however, I find myself recommending both top-notch restaurants to out-of-town guests.
Tucked in a strip mall in a space formerly occupied by Poco Piatti, Encore is not exactly the easiest place to find. However, the bright, gaudy sign will lead you straight to the business' front doors. Having been warmly greeted by our hostess, we were immediately led to our table in a rather small dining space -- which brings me to my first tip to dining here: make reservations!
Our personable and highly entertaining server swung by our table within minutes of being seated and proceeded to fill our glasses. The appetizer menu covered a range of tempting options: from JD Wesley's infamous crab cakes to the Creole pie. The Creole pie called and I unhesitantly answered, while two of my dining companions opted for the crab cakes. The pie itself was divine, to say the least. Chunks of crawfish can be found nestled between layers of tender, flaky dough immersed in spices. The bite of crab cake I managed to sneak in also proved to be heavenly, with the accompanying aioli sauce augmenting the already flavorful pan-seared crab cake patties.
Onto the actual entrees themselves. Again, my indecisiveness kicked in making it difficult to settle on simply one dish. The young sea bass sounded delicious, as did the potato crusted sea bass. We soon learned that the sea bass was no longer an option for the evening, as was the mahi-mahi. Additionally, Encore was down to one last young sea bass for the evening, which led me to wonder if it was the restaurant's growing popularity that led to such shortages or the fact that they were short-stocked to begin with. Either way, I was thankful when one of my dining companions was gracious enough to let me have the last young sea bass of the night while he settled with a perch entree.
The young sea bass was prepared tableside meticulously and accurately. The dish itself was well-executed with the perfect amalgam of flavors, with a nuance of tang that sets this preparation style apart from the other sea bass I've had at other establishments. My one small gripe was the fish bones that were found in the sea bass, which made it rather difficult to enjoy the cut of fish at times. Portion-wise, Encore did not skimp on the seafood. Friends who ordered the Creole Pasta and the Lobster Ravioli breathed sighs of relief upon seeing the generous chunks of scallops and lobster, respectively.
Having come across many reviews of the memorable desserts at Encore, it didn't come as a surprise to any of my friends that I wasn't going to share my dessert. A printed dessert menu is non-existent here. Rather, the menu was recited to us by our server. My ears tuned into the bread pudding at first, but that quickly shifted after hearing the words 'signature' next to 'chocolate dessert' roll of his tongue. Sold, ladies and gents. No words can possibly do the behemoth of a dessert justice. While it resembled the chocolate sack at the Fat Fish Blue to a certain degree, this one was noteworthy in its own ways. Delicate in appearance, I was taken aback by the richness of the mousse. In fact, it was so dense that I could only finish a quarter of the dessert and requested a box for the rest. Who would have guessed that chocolate mousse would make such a great breakfast alternative to oatmeal, bagels, and the like? I certainly didn't until I polished off the remainder the next morning.
I truly hope that Encore, unlike most of its fine dining counterparts, is here to stay. It's places like this that introduces folks to true gastronomic delights. Chain restaurants need not apply. From the service to the food, all was close to flawless. Word on the street is that the owner himself will concoct a dish for the undecisive diners. Perhaps I'll take advantage of this my next visit. Till then, keep up the amazing culinary skills, Mr. Wesley!
Rating: *****
Encore by JD Wesley
5333 Monroe St
Toledo, OH 43623
(419) 841-3222
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Z Cucina (Columbus, OH)
Having come across many mixed reviews, my expectations were tempered as I stepped inside Z Cucina. A good time was definitely on board regardless of the food, as two of my favorite dining companions joined me on a breezy autumn evening.
We were immediately greeted after being led to our table and were quickly overwhelmed with a throng of words, which we soon learned were the daily specials. The Z Tavola tasting platter ($19) allowed us to sample the restaurant's wide spectrum of appetizers. The three mainstays included the Calamari Fritti, Parmigiano Risotto Fritters, and the House-Made Mozzarella. The three chef's creations of the night happened to be a Mediterranean sardine concoction, pumpkin spread with baguette, and a fruit medley. The calamari fritti particularly stood out as the squid had been lightly battered, flash fried, and topped with a memorable shallot sauce. The parmagiano risotto fritters were equally delectable, with the distinct flavor of mozzarella contrasting nicely with the piquant tomato sauce. The fruit medley would have to be my least favorite of the six, since it was a mixture of raisins and cranberries. Paired with the pumpkin dip, however, made for a refreshing appetizer.
The bread basket was then presented -- which I found to be slightly odd. The warm herb and olive oil infused bread was tasty enough as is that the olive oil balsamic dipping sauce proved to be highly unnecessary.
Hesitating between the Orange Sage Veal Loin ($22) and the daily special of Confit Risotto, the former trumped in a heartbeat when I saw Yukon Gold Potatoes as the accompanying starch. The veal loin itself was well-seasoned and spiced. A few squirts of lemon juice would have made it more enjoyable, however. The green beans and the aforementioned potatoes were slightly undercooked making them the crunchy components to my main. Whether that was intentional on the chef's part is beyond me, but I do like my potatoes a little softer (i.e. more cooked) in order to bring out the natural buttery taste.
As a closure to dinner, the Butterscotch Panna Cotta ($6) was a no-brainer. It was Z Cucina's signature dessert, and I could see why. A chocolate coated biscotti was served alongside a martini glass filled with layers of rich, gooey caramel and gelatinous textured cream of milk and sugar. Absolutely divine.
There were certainly a few hits and misses throughout the night. Both of my friends raved about the juicy scallops and the risotto, while both unanimously agreed on the uninspiring dessert libations, particularly the Z Caffe.
Our debonair server remained attentive and helpful during dinner -- being quick to answer any questions we had in regards to the ingredients and such. The restaurant itself was strewn with white fabrics, which transformed a rather plain looking space into a more elegant and more inviting area. No diner can feel out of place dressed down in jeans or decked out to the nines in evening dresses. And given the broad range of prices and menu choices (that vary by season), I must say that this is an excellent date spot!
Rating: ****
Z Cucina
1368 Grandview Ave
Columbus, OH 43212
(614) 486 - 9200
Friday, October 9, 2009
Deepwood Restaurant (Columbus, OH)
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Cameron's American Bistro (Columbus, OH)
Much like my first visit to Sage American Bistro, Cameron's American Bistro (CAB) failed to impress during my first dining experience. However, I was willing to give CAB a second chance and was quite happy I did, as I felt that the menu was more diverse this time around and the dishes more satisfying.
My mother and I came in sans reservation. For 5pm, it was okay. Any later and I would highly suggest making reservations as folks were streaming in at a rapid pace. Admittedly, I was probably the youngest amongst the dining crowd and I vaguely recalled it being the case when I first came in a few years ago as well. We were momentarily greeted by our polite but overly-formal waitress and waters were immediately brought to our table. Bread and butter was also brought to our table and I noted that that too had not changed. Freshly baked sourdough bread with butter and a whole head of roasted garlic -- both for spreading purposes. While I found the butter to be remarkably boring, I happily took advantage of the garlic spread and requested a second bread basket even before our entrees had arrived.
Unbeknownst to both my mother and I, it would be an evening of Southern cooking. To start, we ordered the Goat Cheese Beignets appetizer, which was finished with tomato coulis, aged ricotta, and basil oil. These morsels of deliciouness proved to be hearty and filling despite their seemingly small sizes. The delicate and mildly pungent goat cheese blended quite nicely with the piquant tomato coulis and basil oil.
For our mains, I opted for the Low Country Shrimp and Grits, while my mom decided on the daily special of Seared Scallops. Eight plump and juicy shrimp were found on my plate in addition to goat cheese grits and broccolini. Goat cheese seems to be the prevailing theme here at CAB. The shrimp were sweet, meaty, and most importantly, flavorful. The natural flavor of the prawns were definitely brought out in the preparation of the entree. The grits, however, were a bit disappointing as they were bland, with the goat cheese adding a somewhat creamy accent.
Passing on desserts is unheard of in my book, so we decided to share the New Orleans Bread Pudding. Quite frankly, aside from the name, there was nothing Southern about this dessert. In fact, I found this sugary concoction to be rather plain. While the Vanilla Bean Anglaise and Raspberry Coulis blended harmoniously with the actual bread pudding, neither delivered the 'oomph' that would have made this dessert a memorable one.
All in all, my return to CAB, while better than the first, proved to be a-okay. While it wasn't entirely a 3-star experience, it wasn't a 4-star either. There were clearly hits and misses in the presentations. Seeing that it was Cameron Mitchell's first restaurant, I am a bit dismayed that CAB still lacks that 'wow factor.' There is still room for improvements here, but I'll still venture back if ever family or friends suggest coming here one day for dinner.
Rating: ***
Cameron's American Bistro
2185 W Dublin Granville Rd
Columbus, OH 43085
(614) 885-3663
Sage American Bistro (Columbus, OH)
My first experience at Sage American Bistro left much to be desired. Then again, it was when the bistro first opened its doors, so it needed to work out the kinks. Moreover, I was in for a Sunday brunch at the time, which I later learned pales in comparison with the dinner menu. As a side note, the Creme Brulee French Toast is not to be missed while brunching here.
However, having stopped back in for a girls' night out during Restaurant Week, I felt that SAB displayed its utmost potential as being one of the best restaurants to hit the Columbus dining scene. It truly seemed as though SAB had ironed out the shortcomings in the last few months, and if the bistro keeps this up, I may have to start coming back more often.
For appetizers, I opted for the more creative and meticulously presented Crispy Pork Belly With Creamed Corn and Jalapeno Ketchup (although after seeing the Seared Tuna BLT, I had to admit that it was just as impressive in delivery.) To say that the jalapeno ketchup added a subtle undertone would be an understatement, as the spicy sauce empowered the starter. Seeing how my tastebuds have a preference for all things spicy, this was a superb beginning for the rest of the evening. The pile of succulent and juicy corn also paired nicely with the overall crispiness of the pork belly.
For my main, I unhesitatingly ordered the first thing that jumped from the menu: Seared Day Boat Scallops, Polenta Fries, Braised Baby Bok Choy, Lemon Beurre Blanc, and Blackberry Ketchup. Again, SAB continues to impress with its blending of sauces. The dish boasted a winning interplay of savory and sweet, with the baby bok choy being the middle ground between the two. The scallops retained their maximum flavors while maintaining their natural juiciness. My dining companions opted for the Grilled Bistro Steak With Roasted Redskins, Wilted Spinach, Natural Jus, and Chimichuri as well as the Pretzel Crusted Salmon, Whole Grain Mustard Beurre Blanc, Roasted Redskins, and Green Beans. Praises were sung in regards to the deliciousness of their own respective dishes all throughout dinner.
Lastly, and decidedly with uninspiring choices, the desserts -- which contrasted heavily with the innovative appetizer and entree options. Aside from the chocolate cake, the other two desserts listed were boring. Johnson's vanilla ice cream in lieu of Jeni's is a no-go in my book. At first glance, the banana-coconut creme brulee sounded enticing, but remembering that we had walked past a few sad-looking creme brulee in the dessert fridge on our way in, none of my dining companions went with this option. Rich, creamy, and decadent, the chocolate cake clearly outshone the ubiquitous vanilla ice cream.
Our server, while seemingly detached at times, made sure all our needs were met. The leisurely pace of dinner allowed us to savor every bite and then sit and digest that particular course before moving on to the next, and despite the place being packed by 7pm, we never once felt as though we were rushed. Simple but modern, SAB occupies the space formerly known to many Columbus folks as Turkish Cuisine. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of making reservations as this place fills up fast making parking spots more difficult to find -- especially when taking into consideration the Hounddog's enthusiasts rolling in during the later hours.
Till next time, Sage. Till next time.
Rating: *****
Sage American Bistro
2653 North High St
Columbus OH 43202
(614) 267-7243
Sunday, July 5, 2009
L'Antibes (Columbus, OH)
L'Antibes has been on my 'to try' list for quite some time now. The fact that it prides itself on "fabulous French dining experience" certainly played a role in my escelated expectations. Having heard about its small dining room area, I made sure to made reservations for two for a Friday evening of girl talk/catching up/what have you. I later learned that reservations were absolutely unnecessary as there were only two other tables there during the entire duration of our meal.
I personally found the waiters to be quite formal. Polite, yes. Reserved, yes. As for the menu, I was rather disappointed to find that many of the items listed online were not available that day or were no longer being served. (The stuffed quail appetizer caught my eye, but alas, was nowhere to be found on the paper menu.) In addition, prices of certain dishes also did not match up to the prices listed on the online menu either. [***ETA: The current online menu is up-to-date in terms of offerings and prices.] Upon placing our orders (foie gras as starter and sweetbread as main for myself and crab cake and duck for my friend), the bread basket was immediately brought to our table. The warm sourdough rolls were definitely enjoyable, but I did find the "sea salt" butter to be dull.
Our appetizers arrived momentarily and I have to say that my friend made a better choice with the blue lump crab cake with seaweed salad and whole grain mustard beurre blanc ($16). Generous in filling and bursting with flavor with just the perfect crisp, it puts my torchon of foie gras, fig jam, balsamic reduction and brioche toast ($18) to shame. While it was rich, buttery, and filling, it was also too fruity for my liking. The fig jam was a bit extraneous and the appetizer itself would have been better off without it.
Now onto the second disappointing factor of the night: my entree (Sautéed Sweetbreads, Crimini Mushrooms, Sugar Snap Peas, Pommes Puree, Brandy Cream -- $27), or rather its presentation. Now, having seen pictures of some of the dishes L'Antibes offers both on its website and in various reviews, I was underimpressed with the new take on the dish. While the sweetbreads themselves were full of flavor with the right hint of crispiness, the pommes puree failed to deliver a 'wow' factor and resembled your generic mashed potatoes instead. My friend, however, sang praises of her duck breast in raspberry-cassis sauce, again served with pommes puree ($24) Clearly, avoiding pommes puree is next to impossible here at L'Antibes.
Lastly, and inarguably the most disappointing delivery, was my dessert. Again, a few good-sounding items (such as the lemon curd tartlette served with raspberry puree) had been eliminated from the menu leaving us with about four options to choose from. While I'm not a die-hard fan of pears in general, what was described of the Poached Pear in Gewurztraminer, Honey, and Cardomom, Grand Marnier Yogurt sounded impressive. Moreover, I had seen previous rendition of this dessert at L'Antibes (not knowing that it, too, has changed) and decided to give it a try. Well, the sweet course arrived at our table exactly like it sounded. Poached pear in yogurt. Taste-wise, I wasn't able to detect any traces of Gewurztraminer nor cardomom and found the dessert stodgy overall. $7 poorly spent, if you ask me. My friend, again, made the better choice with the Bittersweet Chocolate Mousse served in a Honey Tulip with Coffee sauce. Just like the rest of our meal, it came out looking nothing like what had been pictured or described.
Given the reputation of a high caliber restaurant, I was highly unsatisfied with L'Antibes. The service, while polite and attentive, leaned towards the impersonal and formal side at times. The ambiance certainly mimicked the formality exuded by the waitstaff. However, the final price tag left a lot to be desired, as new changes are made for the worse.
Rating: **
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Fifi's Reprise Restaurant and Lounge (Toledo, OH)
1423 Bernath Parkway